We found ourselves today in the National Ethnographic Museum on the Kigali side of Butare. What a simple, direct and artefact-based picture this wonderfully-presented museum gives of Rwandan ethnography! The young students who welcomed us and looked after us in the amazingly cheap and tat-free craft shop (presents for everyone at home) were delightful. The one thing which caused our hearts to sink was our being the only punters in the museum (an experience we’ve previously only once before had, in Tirana’s Albanian National Museum in 1999!). Beers before and a toothsome lunch after this outstanding visit were at the Ibis Hotel (chicken, rice and peas, with chips; beer and wine; Maramba coffee – all for three – for GBP 17.50!). The amazing cathedral is also well worth a visit – with an acapella choir of 30+ rehearsing, most beautifully and mellifluously, a sung Easter mass in the church hall when we were there.
Sue and Frank