First off, thanks for putting the Bradt Guide together – it is by far the most detailed and, most importantly, accurate guide out there. I’m in Rwanda right now and just wanted to update info on the border crossing from Gisenyi (Rubavu) to Goma. With two others (they were German, myself American), we crossed over by road into Goma from Gisenyi, but not without much hassle.
According to the border police chief (and verified by locals afterward), the visa now costs $285 per person unless arranged in advance at the DRC Embassy in Kigali. The woman in our group (a savvy negotiator) spent 20 minutes in a back office with the chief and negotiated him down to $100 per person, with the caveat that he keeps our passports to ensure our return and that we hire a Congolese guide (whom the chief conveniently provided) for and extra $50. We took the deal, reluctantly. The police chief subsequently called the guide while we were in town to tell us to ‘watch our camera,’ as apparently we were taking a few too many photos and were reported by local authorities.
All in all, it was still worth making the trip – the situation in the refugee villages out on the lava fields is dismal to say the least and I think it’s important to see this first hand, as it’s fallen well off the media radar.
Thanks and hope this helps,